We are publishing personal essays from CNN’s global staff as they live and cover the story of Covid-19. Nick Paton Walsh is CNN’s International Security Editor, based in London. He returned to the city from 15 years away in 2017.London (CNN)It’s only eight days later. Just over a week into the lockdown, and the toilet paper and pasta have magically returned. London was told it was ahead of the rest of the UK for coronavirus infections by about three weeks. The moment of surge, or peak, is now upon us, even if our best scientists simply can’t be sure how deep is the horror it will bring. The city hasn’t collapsed, more held its breath. Sirens rattle vacated roads. Red buses roam emptily, leaving you to wonder where the quarter of passengers reportedly still using them are. A passerby’s cough can echo in the first light, even if the dawn chorus is louder than it’s seemed before.The past weeks have conjured a capital from dystopian movie sets; a deserted moonscape suddenly lit up, as if someone turned the sunlight back on at 3 a.m. On the first morning of the partial lockdown, the lights were still on at the usually


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